Milanese dining officially landed in the Eternal City two years ago, in the summer of 2024, with the opening of its first authentic Milanese restaurant: Trattoria Stendhal Roma, nestled right in the heart of the city inside Galleria Alberto Sordi.
Milan in Rome. On a plate
Is it truly possible that this was the first? In a metropolis buzzing with eateries showcasing flavours from every corner of the globe? Apparently so. That, at least, is the word from the "brave" culinary pioneers who journeyed from the Madonnina to the Colosseum to make this gastronomic gamble—armed with veal cutlets, risotto, and ossobuco.
And against all odds, they have won over the local Romans, a crowd notoriously resistant to whichever culinary "colonizer" happens to target their palates next.
Case in point: right as Rome’s Stendhal opened its doors, social media saw a wave of criticism over the announced arrival of Salt Bae’s first Italian outpost—the Turkish butcher-turned-chef famous for his theatrical salt-sprinkling and less-than-affordable prices.
"Nun te volemo" ("We don't want you here"), wrote scores of Romans, pointing out that Bae was supposed to open in Milan before shifting his sights to Rome. And so, at the dining table, an attempt is being made to reconcile the the age-old rivalry between the two cities—or at least to even the score, menu-wise.
The location
The choice of Galleria Alberto Sordi (formerly Galleria Colonna) evokes the quintessentially Milanese setting of the larger Galleria Vittorio Emanuele—a far livelier arcade, home to cafés and fine-dining establishments such as Carlo Cracco's restaurant.
Yet what truly matters here is the prime central location, combined with a heartfelt tribute to Roman culture via the gallery’s namesake: "Albertone" Sordi, the legendary star of An American in Rome and a cherished local icon.
This Roman chapter of Trattoria Stendhal occupies the former premises of a bag and luggage shop, spread across two levels decorated in deep forest green. Positioned just steps from Montecitorio (the seat of Italy’s Chamber of Deputies), the restaurant draws a members of parliament alongside tourists and locals craving a taste of the northern metropolis.
On the menu
Head Chef Pasquale Mancino’s menu offers a wide selection of classics: from the vibrant "Giallo Milano" saffron risotto to the quintessential thick, bone-in Milanese veal cutlet served with crisp potatoes; from ossobuco in gremolada served over saffron risotto to mondeghili—traditional Milanese meatballs originally made using leftover boiled meats.
But the flavours of the host city are not forgotten. On the menu, Rome claims its own rightful spot in the sun—and on the plate—with classic rigatoni all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara, fettuccine with coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail), tonnarelli cacio e pepe, fettuccine Alfredo, and savoury abbacchio alla cacciatora (hunter’s-style lamb).
This article was reviewed by an external translation partner